A new engine for Peregrin:

Replacing the tired Volvo-Penta with a Yanmar

 

Big Trouble in River City; or, The Day My Engine Died.  The very first time I saw my boat's engine during the pre-purchase survey in July of 2002, it was acting badly.  The surveyor could not get the engine to start.  Alarm bells should have been going off in my head, but I was mesmerized by this otherwise wonderful boat. Once the engine (a Volvo 2003) was started, the surveyor said that he “didn’t like the way it sounded”. He officially described it in his report as making a “whooshing sound”.  He wasn’t sure what it was, but felt it could be a valve problem.  I hired someone to “survey” the engine; he was a certified Volvo mechanic (they are rare here) and said the valves were way out of adjustment. He did not perform a survey of the engine, however.  Six hundred dollars later, the engine started a little bit better; but even so, this engine always needed lots of cranking to get it to start.  In contrast, the ancient, one-cylinder Yanmar on my old boat would always start within a second or two of cranking, so this should definitely have set of those alarm bells.  Well, I actually had started to hear bells, but they were the bells of the mechanics’ cash registers.…

 

By “lots of cranking”, I mean a cold engine on a warm day would take perhaps 15-20 seconds of cranking. Again, my old Yanmar would take 1 or 2.  When the engine was warm, 2 or 3 seconds would start it up. On a cool day, it would take at least 30 seconds of cranking to start. Note: NEVER crank an engine for more than 5-10 seconds at a time!  This could overheat the starter. If you need to crank more than that, do it in multiple periods of 5-10 seconds; also, if you must crank for more than 20-30 seconds, you must close your raw water seacock or you will flood your engine with seawater. This is because there is no exhaust pressure to push the cooling seawater out of the exhaust system; it could flood the cylinders through the exhaust valves. Just remember to open it once the engine starts.

 

Once the Volvo had started, it would run strongly and never missed a beat.  But when the engine had cooled down after a day of sailing, it was “Hell Week” compressed into a half-hour as the endless cranking sessions began once again. I had yet another “certified Volvo mechanic” look at it again; he left the engine pretty much as it had been, but left me $400 poorer.  I did notice that as time went on, the cranking sessions grew longer and longer.  Finally, one cold (45 F) morning in November of 2003 the engine would not start at all.  I cranked for about 20 minutes (clock time, not cranking time) without a peep, grunt or pop from the diesel.  I borrowed a can of ether from another sailor, and after several generous shots of ether and another 20 seconds of cranking, the engine reluctantly started.  My faith in the engine fell lower than an ant’s belly, and I wanted to hurl the puke-green piece of scrap metal over the side then and there.  It became even worse when later that day, the engine died while negotiating the treacherous Hell Gate in New York’s East River.  I vowed right there that something had to be done.

 

Rebuild or Replace; or, How To Throw Good Money After Bad.  I seriously considered rebuilding the 2003. In fact, I hired “my” Volvo mechanic to rebuild the heads, as he was “quite sure” that’s all it needed. His estimate in September 2003 was “about $1800” for the head job. But after this mechanic failed to show up a few times for appointments I had with him, and also failed to perform the jobs I laid out for him I began to have my doubts. I checked around with other Volvo mechanics, and they estimated as high as $3,000 to rebuild the engine. And that was just for a typical rebuild- if I needed a new water pump, heat exchanger, transmission, hoses, alternator, etc. the cost would rise.  So as if I hadn’t already spent enough money, I hired yet another Volvo mechanic to do a formal survey of the diesel to determine if it actually needed a rebuild or not- maybe I needed just a valve job? So, $450 later, I learned that the valves were OK but the “cross-hatching was all washed out” of my cylinder walls, and that compression was low in all cylinders, with 2 of them quite low- no wonder it wouldn’t start!  This Volvo mechanic, “Monmouth Marine” of New Jersey, is highly regarded in my area, and his bill reflects that.  He said that the engine needed a rebuild and he would do it if I asked, but he didn’t recommend it. The reasons he gave made sense to me: though the rebuilt engine should start and run like a new one, everything else on the engine was old as dirt and would soon go; in addition, a new engine has a year warranty while the rebuild has at most 90 days.  Also, I did a survey of sailors who rebuilt their old engines: a full 50% had serious problems or even engine or trans failure within a year of the rebuild; the others were at least moderately happy.  With my luck, I knew in which group I would fall! So I had already sunk well over $1,000 into the old Volvo with nothing to show for it but a much thinner wallet. The old engine had to go!

 

Choosing the engine; or, Things That Go Bump In The Night. I seriously considered 3 different engines for the replacement of the old Volvo: Universal, Betamarine, and Yanmar. I did not consider Volvo at all, for several reasons: 1) they are expensive; 2) Volvo parts are very expensive and hard to locate here in the US; 3) Volvo mechanics are scarce as hen’s teeth in the US; 4) my rotten experience with Volvo diesels and 5) every single Volvo mechanic I spoke to said that in general Volvo diesels are not very reliable.  That last one really got me- Volvo’s own mechanics can’t say anything good about them. These same mechanics did say though that the older Volvos, the MD series, were extremely reliable and built like a brick outhouse. They all particularly disliked the Volvo 2000 series: the 2001, 2002 and 2003.  On the other hand, these same mechanics had nothing but praise for the Yanmar series such as the Yanmar 2GM and 3GM  diesels.

 

 

Since my original Volvo 2003 was a 28 hp diesel, I wanted to replace it with an engine of at least the same power.  One which fit the bill was the Universal M-35B of 35 hp. This engine is a marinized Kubota tractor diesel, which are considered to be reliable and rugged. The Universal M-35B diesel is similar to the Betamarine, but has a much wider network of support, as it has been around for a long time. This engine, which in late 2003 sells for $7100 discounted, has most of its service points on the PORT front side of the engine, which is nearly ideal for the Scanmar 33 and 35, as the port side is fully accessible once the engine box is removed.  Although a fine diesel, the problem

was finding a capable, knowledgeable Universal mechanic to install it for me. The mechanic who had previously worked on my Volvo 2003 was also a Yanmar and Universal dealer, but he had botched several repairs and diagnoses on the Volvo and therefore was persona non grata.  Since I had trouble locating a Universal dealer and installer, I passed on this diesel as well. Afterwards, I was told that Universal parts were moderately difficult to locate. I didn’t seriously consider the Westerbeke diesel for the same reason- lack of trained mechanics in my area, and fewer dealers who could supply parts.  Incidentally, this mechanic also measured my engine space and declared that the Universal “would not fit”, but the Yanmar 3GM30 would. When I pressed him for details about the Universal’s poor fit, he said that it would be very tight up against the bulkhead for the head.  I haven’t confirmed this myself, but you could check against the manufacturer’s specs at www.westerbeke.com.  I really liked the Universal M-35B, and thought the extra 7 hp would come in handy.

 

The second line of diesels I considered was the Betamarine. The BD1305 has 35 hp, the BD722 has 20 hp, and the BD1005 28. The 2-cylinder BD722 is shown here; see Beta Marine’s website, www.betamarinenc.com, for description and specs of each. Like the Universal, the Betamarine engines are marinized Kubota tractor diesels. The Betamarine is a fairly new name in marine engines in the US, although it had been introduced to the UK some years before. The good points about the Betamarine diesels are the engines' user-friendliness (all of the service points have been moved to the front of the engine), and the

 

(supposedly) open source of parts from tractor diesel rather than marine diesel sources.  Most of these engines even have a manually-operated brass oil-change pump built on the front for easy oil changes, a very nice feature indeed (see the photo above).  The hot oil is pumped out to a spigot on the front of the engine by working the pump’s T-handle. The BD1305 sold for $7369 discounted in September of 2003; but the Betamarine distributor was dead-set against selling me the 35 hp model, and wanted me to buy instead the little 20 hp. I just couldn’t see why I should repower with less horsepower, but he was convinced that a boat of 10,850 pounds needs at most 20 hp! The downside of the Betamarine diesels is that very, very few mechanics in the US have even HEARD of Betamarine, let alone know how to fix them. For the most part, you'd have a hard time finding someone who really knew these engines.  Another negative was that the closest dealer/installer I could find was at least 2 days' sail in Connecticut, and he estimated a minimum of $2500 (about 6-7 days) to install the engine.  I could not get a more accurate estimate unless I did the 2-day trip (with a bad engine) to his shop in Connecticut. I began to wonder what would happen if I needed service on this diesel- would I have to sail 2 days to another state just to have him repair the Betamarine diesel?  What if I was on a long trip along the US coast and was unable to fix the engine myself- how would I find a Betamarine mechanic? Since there are so few mechanics familiar with the Betamarine, they could charge whatever the market will bear; this is one reason why I passed on the Betamarine diesel. The other reasons were the price of the engine (costs substantially more than the Universal and Yanmar) and of the installation. 

 

In contrast, the Yanmar line has a very substantial, world-wide network of suppliers and mechanics.  Yanmars are widely used thoughout the east coast of the US and the Caribbean, my area of travel. I had three different mechanics who measured the engine spaces for the Yanmar 3GM30, and declared it would easily fit into the space with minor modifications to the engine bed.

 

The 3GM30 is a very reliable workhorse of a diesel which was designed from a clean sheet of paper as a marine diesel; it’s not a marinized tractor engine.  It produces 27 hp. There are several minor problems however with the 3GM30 as a repower choice for the Scanmar 33 and 35: the service points are on the STARBOARD side of the engine, exactly the wrong place; the engine would be close against the bulkhead for the head, and a hatch would need to be cut in this area to allow oil and filter changes and engine bleeding.  Another pain is that the raw water pump is mounted backwards (i.e., the pump

cover faces the rear of the engine) on the 3GM30, and is also on the starboard side; impeller changes would be a nightmare.  The third strike against it was that the engine had just had its production stopped late in 2003; it was now an obsolete model although Yanmar is committed to supply parts and support for another 15 years.

 

The replacement for the 3GM30 is the new Yanmar 3YM30 of 29 hp.  The water pump, dip stick, oil filler, and fuel filter are at the front of the engine for ease of service. Unfortunately, the oil filter is on the starboard side, but as the filter is horizontal and there is enough room in the Scanmar installation, it should be not too difficult to remove & replace. It will be messy though! This engine is more powerful yet slightly smaller and substantially lighter than the Volvo 2003. Boat show price of this engine in December of 2003 was around $6300, a real bargain for the latest technology. This engine is based on the 3TNV76 Yanmar industrial

engine which is a newly-designed industrial unit. The 3YM30 weighs 286 pounds, with dimensions of 26.5” L X 17.9” W and 21.2” H.  It uses glow plugs for good cold starting ability (yeah!!!) and an electric stop solenoid. It's a cleaner engine, and meets all future (2006) Tier 2 pollution standards for both the EU and US. The control panel, which will handily fit in the same space as the old Volvo panel, comes fitted with a tachometer and an hour meter. The standard alternator is 60 amps, and there is an optional 80-amp alternator available.  One of the really nice features of these engines is

that they are much quieter and smoother than the current generation of diesels, as Yanmar made many changes to the design to reduce noise and vibration substantially.  There is one downside to this engine for us Scanmar owners whose boats have a propeller shaft: as of today, only a straight transmission is available. The old Volvo had a slight (about a 7°) down angle, which meant that the engine sat relatively level on the beds. The Yanmar 3GM30 does have a 7° down angle trans, but the new 3YM30 does not. This means that the front of the engine will have to be raised in relation to the trans.

 

But there is good news for you Volvo-PentaSaildrive” owners: the Yanmar 3YM30 can also be purchased with a Saildrive instead of a straight transmission; it is known as the 3YM30C.

 

Several Scandinavian boat builders are using the 3YM30C with Saildrives, including Rolf Magusson’s “Contrast” line. See www.yanmar.com for full specs; in the US, check out www.mackboring.com. If you are in the NY-NJ-CT area, email me before you choose a dealer and/or installer- several of the official installers stink like last week’s codfish, and I can tip you off who these people are.

 

I had heard that Yanmar was offering the new 3YM30 for the same price as the now obsolete 3GM30. In addition, a few of the Yanmar dealers agreed to sell the engines at a special discounted price of $6800 if purchased at the NY Boat Show; the regular price was $7,000.  So in January of 2004, we went to the show in Manhattan and plopped down a check at the Yanmar booth for a new 3YM30.  I thought that this was a perfect deal: what may be the best engine at the lowest price of the three in the running!

 

 

Next: The Installation